The African Luxury Master Class: Exclusive Interview With African Luxury Menswear Designer Sheria Ngowi

(image provided by Sheria Ngowi)

Africa’s fashion industry is one of the fastest growing industries. The world has found a way of appropriating African designs and textiles in its runways so it was only about time that more African luxury fashion brands would start cropping up to offer Africans and the world an authentic interpretation of the continent's style. In my past life I used to be a high-end image consultant (predominately for the men’s market), this is where I got to learn about the extremely talented designer Sheria Ngowi. Sheria Ngowi is a Tanzanian luxury menswear designer who has taken Africa by storm. So when I got the opportunity to approach him on Instagram, I took it. Talk about the power of social media. To my delight, Sheria was so warm, appreciative and keen on doing this interview. This interview turned into a master class that had me thinking of when I completed my Honours in Brand Leadership. Sheria has dressed heads of states, celebrities and Africa’s wealthiest elite. Sheria Ngowi has managed to grow his brand continentally by effectively using social media and by remaining authentic to his roots. His passion comes alive in his designs and I am excited to see where the brand is heading. Below is the interview between King Gina (KG) and Sheria Ngowi (SN), verbatim. The branding and business principles in this interview confirm that Sheria Ngowi is an African luxury brand to look out for.

KG:

How did the name of your company come about?

SN:

Sheria Ngowi is my name; one of my long term plans was that I wanted to create a brand that would tell a story and connect with my vision and myself. It's hard to be a name and a brand at the same time.

The history of fashion is filled with designers who put their names on the label like me because in the fashion industry, more so than almost any other industry, is driven by individuals; individuals who capture the essence of a desired persona with their unique clothing and accessory designs. Individuals whose very names evoke images of glamour and style. Individuals whose names have become famous international corporate brands like Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, Prada and Versace.

Most people hear these words and think of things, not individuals. But let's not forget, these words are the names of individuals as Sheria Ngowi because by adding your name on a label; it becomes a trademark; it is a primary asset of any other fashion brand.

KG:

What inspired you to get into fashion?

SN:

I draw my inspiration from so many sources, but primarily from my late father who was an incredibly stylish person who used to love fashion, and yes, his sense of style inspired me a lot. I also get my inspiration from a lot of things that often evolve out of seeing a single button or fabric or trimming, which triggers an idea for a design. I never spend a lot of time stressing about what sort of “theme” one of my collections will follow. The ideas are always there and ready to flow when I start sketching my drawings.

KG:

Describe the fashion landscape in Tanzania.

SN:

The fashion industry is definitely picking up in Tanzania; however we still have a long way to go. We need to find a way to blend in our cultural roots and modern trends, and come up with our own style. We are definitely going places though. There is no African designer that can compare with the likes of Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford and Ozwald Boateng who are at the helm of the largest luxury brands of the world.

My aim is to at least spark interest and growth in the fashion industry in Tanzania and Africa as a whole and challenge these fashion superpowers because we have talent, all that we need is exposure and investment in the right areas. It will take us a lot of hard work and dedication to accomplish all this but I believe everything is possible when you have the right plan. I see my brand being eligible to apply for all the important Fashion Weeks hosted around the world and I am looking forward to it.

My biggest wish is to have my name in an International Fashion Platform, so that my grandkids and their friends could see that it is okay to follow a belief and for my country to be proud of me as a Tanzanian.

KG:

When did you get your “big break”?

SN:

In December, during the holiday season.

(image provided by Sheria Ngowi)

KG:

Which brands inspired you as a designer?

SN:

Tom Ford, Gucci, YSL, Ozwald Boateng, Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Canali, Zegna, Paul Smith

KG:

Describe the Sheria Ngowi man?

SN:

Sheria Ngowi is someone whose collection is luxurious and sophisticated yet from another time. I made my designs for men who are sophisticated, there was no lack of restraint in the shapes or in the looks, I offered a collection where every detail is accentuated, making men look good without ever giving them an affected or ridiculously disguised look.

My suits are classic and well-built with daring youthful silhouettes. Uses of slim-fit check shirts, slim ties and bow ties are details that make my collection simple and unique; glasses and bags contribute to the image of a refined, relaxed man.

KG:

How does one order a Sheria Ngowi suit if they are not living in Tanzania. What is the process?

SN:

Soon this year I will launch my big flagship store in Dar es Salaam, followed by my official e-commerce online store where customers will be able to purchase my products directly online from different parts of the world.

KG:

Name four high profile clients that you have dressed.

SN:

Former President of Tanzania - Dr. Jakaya Kikwete

Current President of Zambia - Hon. Edgar Lungu

Former Prime Minister of Kenya - Raila Odinga

Minister of Finance of South Africa - Malusi Gigaba

 Sheria Ngowi with Former Tanzanian President Dr. Jakaya Kikwete
(image: tanzaniatoday.co.tz)

KG:

How has technology and social media influenced your interaction with clients?

SN:

The influence of technology on social media has been largely beneficial to my business. Internet-enabled telecommunications technologies let me communicate with my customers in real-time and respond to their issues much quicker than it would have been possible with manual systems. My employees are no longer hindered by equipment availability, time zones or geographic distance and can now communicate seamlessly using technology. Even if I have a small, single-location business, my employees can still leverage social media technology to communicate with each other and with their customers even when out of the office, and I can use a blog or social network to stay in constant contact with my customers.

KG:

When looking at your value chain, is the Sheria Ngowi brand 100% Made-in-Africa?

SN:

Not 100% Made-in-Africa because specifying the country in which a good was produced has long been a marker of quality. The ateliers of France, leather workers of Italy and watchmakers of Switzerland have built global reputations for their exacting standards. Today, ‘Made in’ labelling is also an indicator of the regulations and health, safety and wage standards under which a good was produced.

But in a world with increasingly complex supply chains that can span several countries, a jacket sold by a European brand can be manufactured in a cheap and relatively unregulated labour market like China or Africa, but finished and packaged in France, Italy or Tanzania, thereby earning a ‘Made in France’ 'Made in Italy’ or ‘Made in Tanzania’ label.

Indeed, according to European Union regulations, companies need only to spend a certain amount manufacturing a good in a certain country in order to qualify for local ‘Made in’ labelling. At the same time, powerful alternative labelling systems, like Fair-trade and Certified Organic, have emerged, offering companies new tools for communicating manufacturing standards to consumers, who are increasingly concerned with the provenance of their goods.

KG:

What made you enter the luxury brand market instead of the mass retail market?

SN:

In today’s competitive market, luxury brands like Sheria Ngowi have to connect with customers in more creative ways than ever. With mainstream brands pushing up into the premium category and traditional luxury fashion and accessories brands moving into the mass market. It means that real luxury has to distinguish itself cleverly and distinctively to retain its cachet and mystique. As shoe designer Christian Louboutin says, “Luxury is the possibility to stay close to your customers, and do things that you know they will love.”

KG:

Define African luxury.

SN: 

Africa is a continent adorned with hidden treasures. It harbours magnificent landscapes, breathtaking views and unknown oasis all that are yet to be fully appreciated. The continent contains 54 countries, each one with its own cultures and languages. Its history consists of empires, kingdoms, rulers and pioneers whose lineage has become today’s wealthy elites in their various regions. They are the very silent billionaires, royals and business tycoons that the world’s luxury brands are gradually acknowledging and catering too. The characteristics of these wealthy individuals and their dynasties supersede Western media portrayal and stereotypes.

The wealthy African does not merely consist of political figures and celebrities. This prestigious group is extremely discreet yet they possess tremendous buying power. Luxury to the wealthy African is a customized Rolls Royce, a bespoke vacation to unexplored territories, a Sotheby home or a Berkeley apartment in Cape Town. To them luxury is not defined simply by expense, glossy images or celebrity endorsement, rather it is a reflection of their status, their heritage. It is as much about the brand as it is the story behind the purchase and the feelings infused. Whether they are buying a fashion piece, a car or a holiday home, luxury to the wealthy African is personalization. The fashion industry is definitely picking up in Africa as well; however we still got a long way to go. But this is just the beginning and there is more to come.

There is no African designer that can compare with the likes of Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford and Ozwald Boateng who are at the helm of the largest luxury brands of the world.

My aim is to at least spark interest and growth in the fashion industry in Tanzania and Africa as a whole and challenge these fashion superpowers because we have talent, all that we need is exposure and investment in the right areas. It will take us a lot of hard work and dedication to accomplish all this but I believe everything is possible when you have the right plan.

(image: mjandstuff.wordpress.com)

KG:

Do you believe that international brands are engaging with the African market effectively?

SN:

Some of them but not all of them....in short its 5% out of 100%. Shame!

KG:

What would you like to see more of from African Luxury Brands?

SN:

African Fashion Brands are definitely picking up now, however we still have a long way to go. We need to find a way of blending our cultural roots with modern trends, and coming up with our own style. We are definitely going places though.

KG:

Do you believe that Sheria Ngowi (the brand) has contributed to the rise of African Luxury Brands? If so, how?

SN:

Definitely Yes, but the most challenging aspect has to be the financial side of the business. I’m not sure many people realize just how expensive it is to properly launch a brand. At the end of the day, this is a business and as a designer not only should I know about the designing and the creative aspects of the brand but also the financial and marketing sides of the brand.

As a designer I need a business person as my partner, someone with a solid knowledge of the industry, and extensive experience negotiating deals and handling legal and financial issues. I have people who I trust and who advise me on my business. We need to get government support especially by reducing tax and revenues in all imports and exports of raw materials in the production side.

KG:

What about women’s suits? Do you make any exceptions?

SN:

The women's collection is on the way soon.

KG:

Was it intentional for you to become the face of your own brand?

SN:

A basic foundation of branding is to be intentional about how you want to be perceived. My brand is the verbal and nonverbal signals that I send. It exists as what is received; the brand isn’t what I say, it is how what I say is perceived. At its most basic, brands are promises that create expectations. So, I ask myself, what promises am I making and what are the expectations that I'm setting?

Think + Feel = Brand

Think:  When people think of me, what do I want them to recall? What do I represent? What words come to mind when people think of me? And does that align with my own values?

Feel:  How do I want people to feel about me? How do I want people to feel when they are with me? 

The way people feel about me makes a difference in a successful personal brand. What effect do I have on what/how people think and feel about me?

I use these three principles to evaluate and align my brand:

My Appearance: Is how I look consistent with my intended brand? What does my look say about me? What does the look of my work, written communication, products I produce, or even the look on my face say about my professional brand? Am I sending a consistent and intended message to my workers, professional circle, or hiring managers in my look and the look of what I produce?

How I Sound: Do I sound consistent with my intended brand? Does my voicemail message, my tone of voice, the words I choose, the tone of my emails, texts, tweets, or other social media send my intended message? Are my Instagram, Facebook and LinkedIn pages consistent with the message I want to project? And how I sound is also the quality of my listening; so do I listen?

My Actions: Is how I act consistent with my intended brand and with my values? For example, am I courteous, kind, trustworthy, and considerate to people? Am I generous with ideas? Do I show up and deliver? What acts am I known for? How do I handle emotions at work? Remember, my brand is how others perceive me and I can affect my brand by asking myself these questions. So I need to make the appropriate changes so that my career brand; what people think and feel about me; is authentic and intentional in my professional interactions.

(image provided by Sheria Ngowi)

KG:

What brand-building activities have you engaged in to grow the Sheria Ngowi brand?

SN:

Target Consumer; it is not difficult to create a successful marketing program. One simply needs to satisfy the target consumer’s needs and wants.  However, the tricky part is identifying these needs and wants. As a designer I must keep a specific target consumer in mind before developing a new collection. Once the target consumer segment is well defined, it is imperative to ascertain their lifestyle, budget, and things that are most important to them. The success of any fashion label depends on its precise understanding of its target market’s aspirations, desires and ability to spend.

My Brand Story: Stories excite and engage people. They help in imbibing trust and involving people in the experience. As a fashion designer, it becomes crucial to put forward a brand story that makes people talk when they think of the label. It can summarize the existence of their fashion label or what makes the collection distinctive from everything else in the market. The brand story could revolve around how all the apparel in the collection is embedded in African earthiness or organic clothing. It could also revolve around a young, happy take on international fashion. Each fashion label must have a nuanced stance that customers can relate to.

Fashion PR Strategy: Building brand awareness and public relations go hand in hand. The global brand Coca-Cola stands as a perfect example of this statement. The popular fizzy drink’s brand owes a part of its success to an aggressive public relations campaign that has made drinking Coke similar to using “Xerox” machines to make photocopies. Brand building mixed with good PR can result in both higher sales and higher customer loyalty for a fashion label or any brand.

Professionals engaged in both PR and branding can use various methods to attract media interest in a fashion label in order to imbibe positive expectations in the mind of the public. So whenever designers introduce a new collection or plan to make any announcements, working with a PR firm that clearly understands their vision is going to be a key part of building the label.

Social Media: We belong to the digital age, which makes social media a powerful and affordable tool to build awareness around my label. The fashion community prefers using Instagram, Facebook, and Snapchat the most to address their target audience because consumers today devote a mammoth share of their time to these networks. They spot new brands on social media and by seeing the label worn by their favourite fashion bloggers and celebrities, they are often persuaded to contact the designer brand and purchase items from the range.

As a Fashion designer I must find marketing influencers who suit our ethos and communicate well with our target market. Social media is a highly potent and accessible tool and any brand that is serious about driving greater sales must leverage the power of this platform as I do. Although it is impossible to have complete knowledge of the twists and turns and the ways in which a fashion label will evolve over time, setting the foundations for a brand identity at the beginning allows my fashion label to create a distinct and vibrant attitude for itself in the fashion fraternity.

KG:

How do you ensure that your brand remains authentically African?

SN:

Our products are all about celebration, appreciation and gratitude. Whether it is a gift for yourself or others, we ensure each suit feels like a gift. As such, the demand for our products is the highest all over the world.

KG:

Where do you plan on opening your next store/showroom?

SN:

·         Johannesburg, South Africa.

·         Cape Town, South Africa.

·         Nairobi, Kenya.

·         Lagos, Nigeria.

·         Kigali, Rwanda.

·         Kampala,Uganda.

KG:

With the growth of the brand, you have recently introduced a shoe collection; please tell us more about it.

SN:

Because of high demands from my clients who seek a new range of products from our respected brand, and with our bespoke shoes service my Custom Measure shoes are crafted in the same time; honoured tradition as my bespoke line and represent a cost effective alternative for individuals who appreciate quality but who are not yet ready to invest in a completely bespoke product. Our client selects the last shape, leather and style.

The finished product, crafted entirely by hand, is every bit as elegant as a bespoke shoe. Our Custom Measure shoes are also available in Alligator, Saltwater Crocodile, the rarest of all exotics, available upon request. Making the shoe will approximately take not more than 4-6 weeks.

KG:

What do you think about the lack of representation of female designers in men’s fashion even though there is a saturation of male designers in women’s fashion?

SN:

In the fashion industry, women make up more than 70% of the total workforce; yet hold less than 25% of leadership positions in top fashion companies.

They also hold a disproportionately low percentage of senior positions on the factory floor. Women are, by far, the primary consumers of fashion, but more often than not, their point of view is not reflected in business decisions. Companies that exclude women from leadership exclude talent that can give them a competitive edge.

KG:

Which fashion week did you enjoy being part of?

SN:

The continent is filled with talented and enthusiastic designers and yes, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Africa (South Africa) is a platform that tests our abilities to handle the pressure, the hours and all that is needed to make a good thing at last. It promotes design through fine and severe competition that evolves new tastes and flavour in the fashion industry. Furthermore, by showcasing the African aesthetic and by cultivating a refined perspective year after year, our point of view as Africans becomes clearer and more people become attracted to our aesthetic. We have unique designs, and a unique relationship with print, color and texture.

Africa is the Future; we need to tell people about the past, present and future of Africa, detailing its challenges and potentials.

We need to connect people through design to share stories, talents, performances and all the resources we have.

We need to empower people to participate through different actions at home and in Africa. Design has the potential to do this. We need to encourage Africans to reflect on their experiences and share their stories with the world through arts and design. Mercedes Benz Fashion Week stands for this and has so far achieved this brilliantly!

KG:

What does the future of Sheria Ngowi look like?

SN:

My future point of view is more than just a positioning statement or a tagline. It’s how my brand sees the world: what it thinks is important; what it thinks its role is in the world, etc.

The best brands have a point of view so clear it becomes synonymous with the brand: think of Apple, Nike, Virgin –you can easily see the world through their eyes. You know what amenities would be included with the Apple Airline, the Nike Hotel, and the Virgin Spa. Curation then becomes a function of that point of view.

When my brand has a strong point of view, I can begin curating the content in the world, selecting, organizing and displaying it in a way that tells a story, a brand story, rather than just being a jumbled mess. Look at the difference between a collage created by a great artist (Robert Rauschenberg for instance) and a collage created by a child. Not only are the component parts important, but also how they’re assembled, combined, and juxtaposed, this tells a richer story. That’s what can happen when brands get it right with their curation. What my brand decides to display, share, highlight, support, encourage and create for my customers becomes part of the brand’s narration. In doing so, I need to hear Sheria Ngowi’s voice ringing out: "They (your customers) expect it from you.”

The strategy of the revitalization of Sheria Ngowi (the brand) that started at the beginning of this year is set to continue being implemented through a long-term plan aimed to further establish the brand as a leader in the luxury menswear category in Tanzania, Africa and in the world.

(image provided by Sheria Ngowi)

“ASANTE SANA/THANK YOU VERY MUCH” – SHERIA NGOWI

www.sheriangowi.com

Instagram: @sheriangowi

Credit to Copy Editor: Molebogeng Maponya